Monday, May 30

 

Had a fairly good nights sleep. We had a suite with two rooms, so the kids had one to themselves which allowed us a little bit of privacy. After packing up we got on Lee Vining’s main street which is also highway 395 and continued south towards tonight’s stop, Death Valley while looking out for Hot Creek, an icy cold creek with some boiling hot springs emerging under its bottom that makes it possible to find a spot with just the right hot tub temperature.

After missing it and having to ask directions (and get gas) we made a U-turn and went back north just past the little airport and found the graveled exit. After driving a few miles, which I couldn’t remember that we did in 1995, we found it, this time with substantially more water from the spring’s snow-melting than at the last visit in October. Ten years ago I was able to wade out in the water, but this time one had to get past a torrent of cold water hanging on to a rope across it. For the longest time I tried to convince my kids to make it across, but they were no braver than me and never made it any further than up their wastes. When another guy dived in the water upstream and swam across I figured I’d do it too, although it meant spending 80% of the energy fighting the current and the remainder to get across. It was freezing cold and it probably showed as the people greeting me on the other side looked at me like I was dying. But over there it was nice, although streaks of hotter and colder water eventually hit the body. Now, of course, the real trouble was making it back, which meant I lingered in the water longer than I would have without the cold barrier ahead of me before finally convincing myself to go back. I started out by cutting my feet on sharp rocks pushing out in the water and I had a bleeding wound when I had dragged myself half the way on the rope. Oh well, no pain, no gain.

Got back on 395 down to Lone Pine and then on CA-136 to CA-190 towards the valley. Before getting that far, we had to get past a long line of slow-moving cars stacked up ahead of me and a persistent guy in his truck with his louder than powerful V8 was tailgating me. Of course, at the first opportunity to pass, he immediately pulled out in an attempt to get past everyone, including me. There are moments when owning an M5 is extra rewarding. I quickly got out in front of him, stepped on it and with satisfaction checked out his rapidly shrinking image in the rear-view mirror!

Before entering Death Valley we would hit our old favorite restaurant in Panamint Springs after some switchbacks coming down the Argus Range, the latter providing an opportunity to test out the handling of the M5. I took most of the 25mph bends at over 70mph with no problem, well except that the kids bounced like bowling-pins in the back-seat. Truly a feat for this almost ordinary looking sedan.


The restaurant was still there and they had the supposedly same miner’s steak on the menu that we had ten years ago as it both sounded and tasted the same: A one pound piece of excellent meat with garlic and onions. Of course after eating the whole thing and having a beer I felt more like taking a nap than getting back in the car, but a relatively short drive to the other side of the valley and over the mountain-pass would take us to Stovepipe Wells, our base for the next two nights.

We got down there around 5pm and were greeted by a temperature of about 41C, i.e. fairly cool for the time of year… As the sand dunes of Death Valley are just a mile or two away from Stovepipe, we took a short drive over there after checking into our room and walked out a few hundred meters to the open sand, took our shoes off and relaxed there for a while.


Back at the motel the kids got in the pool, while I and my wife hung out with a cold beer before calling it a day.

 


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